Wednesday, March 11, 2009

A Day of Hiking Up a Hill and Listening to Celtic Music

This past Saturday, I visited the Kiyomizu temple on the eastern mountains of Kyoto. I have actually seen the temple in a few movies about Japan, so I was looking forward to going. A few of my Japanese friends, and my sensei, were surprised that I had not seen Kiyomizu temple yet; the temple is widely popular. Once I arrived at the base of the hill and began the slow walk up the ever-thinning streets towards the temple the crowd became noticeably denser. The street leading to the temple was full of colorful tourist shops selling stereotypical Japanese wares and other assorted junk. Adam came across a rug with a motorcycle, an eagle, and a Confederate flag as the design. One store was selling a mask of Obama and a statue of Colonel Sanders with the title ‘Uncle Sam’ on the base.

The Kiyomizu temple is a complex of buildings with the showpiece being a temple on stilts on the side of the hill with a promenade offering a view of Kyoto. On a clearer day, Osaka is visible to the south. The multitude of people moving around, and taking pictures, was astounding. There is an old tradition that if a person jumped off the promenade, a thirteen-meter fall, and lived, their wish would come true. Apparently, over eighty-five percent of the jumpers survived, and today the practice is prohibited.

After leaving Kiyomizu temple, we ended up walking north our current favorite bar, the Gnome. The bartender remembers us, and usually tells us when the weather in Shiga prefecture will be like when we are leaving. On Saturday, the Gnome had a band start playing right after we arrived. The Gnome is usually nearly vacant when we arrive, and having the bar to ourselves is certainly part of the draw for us. However, on Saturday the place was almost full for the concert. ‘Shanachie’ is a quartet of Japanese women playing the fiddle, harp, among an assortment of percussion instruments and a melodica thrown for good measure, accomplice by a singing in Japanese, English and Gaelic. I ended up buying a CD, and the band was happy that some foreigners had been at the gig; although I think at first, the band thought we were Europeans.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Nagoya: Castles, Wandering and Chain-Smkoers

Last Saturday I went to Nagoya for the first time. Nagoya is a small city by Japanese standards, and the avenues and side streets were much wider than in Tokyo and Osaka. However, since the main prewar industry of Nagoya was munitions, most of Nagoya was in ruins by 1945. Consequently, the new city is much less complex than most of the cities I have visited here.

Our group left early in order to make the most of the day, and I was up at seven to shower. I took two trains, and on the first train, office workers were drinking Asahi beer and Suntory whiskey at eight in the morning. I was fortunate to sleep away a good portion of the second, longer, train ride, which brought us into Nagoya. At the main train station, we jumped a couple of crowded subways to get to Nagoya castle. Like Kyoto castle, the construction of Nagoya castle occurred after the end of the civil war period of Japanese history. Therefore, the landscape architecture is grand; an entire park is contained within the outer walls of the castle. The war brought the destruction of the original keep, and the reconstructed keep debuted in 1959. The interior is a five-floor museum topped with an observation floor. I am glad I visited, but I think I like the castle here in Hikone better, as the original floor plan of the castle has remained intact.

After the castle visit, the whole group, now numbering twelve after Shigenori arrived from Hikone, moved to the Sakae district of the city. Sakae is where the main shopping and entertaining is to be found. The women broke off to do some clothes shopping while we men wandered the louder shopping arcades of the Yaba-cho district. The clothing is equally as loud in Nagoya as everywhere in Japan. Adam and I stopped in an army surplus store (of which there are more in Japan than America), to find Nazi SS pins being sold alongside Vietnam era pins. Shigenori lead us to an old shrine, outside of which we bought beer and drank across the street watching the people shopping. I have noticed that the Japanese do not walk and drink or eat, and that only foreigners do this. After talking about this at length with our Japanese friends, we have decided to temporarily curtail walking and drinking. Whether or not that will last is another story.

Once we met back up with the women, Shige tried to lead us to a restaurant that served Nagoya food. During that trip, we learned the Japanese word for wandering. I think that we likely wandered for half an hour, and I am certain we retraced our route twice. The restaurant we found was interesting to say the least; the interior was setup like an old Japanese house. We sat on the floor on pads around out table and ate a few different Nagoya takes on fried chicken and pork, all amidst chain-smokers. Towards the end of the meal, the Japanese man behind me turned around and offered me a drink of sake. When I finished the drink, the man loudly proclaimed to the restaurant that I was a foreigner who could handle his drink.

After the meal the group ended up wandering more, trying to find a bar. The girls were tired and I think not that into finding a bar. Nevertheless, I enjoyed wandering and talking to some of the new students who came with us. I am pleased that overall they are a cool group, pretty adventurous and amiable.

Sunday, February 1, 2009

A Busy Thursday in January

On Thursday October 29, Kevin and I were interviewed by NHK. NHK is the Japanese version of the BBC, and has regional offices around Japan. The NHK film crew sat in on classes as well as interviewed students around the building. Over the lunch period, the film crew came into our room to film us eat lunch. After a short tour of our small apartment, I was filmed eating lunch and then participated in an interview. The crew questioned Kevin first, so I formulated an answer while Kevin was talking. Before the filming began, the crew chief made us remove down the Democratic Party of Japan poster that Kevin filched off a nearby building. Apparently, in Japan, political posters are not given to the public, and the crew did not want to film something that was clearly stolen. Kevin and I had a laugh with Tsuchiya-san, the student services coordinator, about the possible political leaning of NHK implied by removing an opposition party poster.

Later in the day, I joined Kevin for a run around Hikone. The usual route Kevin takes goes along the beach, then through part of the town. By the end of the run, I was in poor shape, but I made it and now I am sore from the waist down. I usually travel through the city rather quickly, so running around the city and beach was a nice perspective on the area.

In the evening, I met with my new conversation partner for the first formal meeting. Takyuki and I talked at the restaurant next to JCMU for around two hours. The meeting went well and I am confident that the relationship will be more beneficial for both of us than my last conversation partner.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

January Picture Update

My room for the New Years Party
Pictured with Ryoko, Shoko and Jenee
At the Shiga University Party; pictured with Masa, Ayako and Gereth.
At the Shiga University Party
The restaurant in Osaka where we dined for Kelly and Shige's birthday.
Pictured with Kevin and Shige
On the train to Osaka with Matt and Shige
At the restaurant. From left to right: Matt, Yui, Kelly, Shige, Adam, Kevin and I
At the bar "Rock Rock" in Osaka
From left to right: Back Row: Kelly, Matt, Kim, I, Jenee, Shige
Front Row: Yuuta, Andrew

Three Weeks into January

My life in Japan right now is going fantastically well; I think mainly because I comprehend much more in class than I was when I left in December. As a member of the returning students, the senseis have looked to me more often to answer questions and voice my opinion. In addition, at this point in my language learning I hope I understand better what I need to do.

The other day Kim, Adam, Kevin, and I went to CoCo Ichibanya Curry House with our friend Shigenori. The curry runs from level zero to ten, and Shige has never eaten level ten. As level ten veterans ourselves, Shige asked us to lunch with him and Kim graciously accompanied us as our photographer. In my opinion, curry is more painful than spicy. Since the spice here is not derived from a pepper, the whole pain experience is different. Shige ended up sweating from the spiciness.

The other day I went to the barber for a haircut. The process of getting a haircut here is fascinating. First, my hair is cut with scissors, then another employee shaves my face and forehead, then I am given a shampoo complete with a quick massage before a final check that includes a device to trim any hair on my ears. The whole experience takes about thirty minutes, uses four different barbers and assistants, and costs ¥1900.

I have been assigned a new conversation partner yesterday, and I have a good feeling about Takayuki. Takayuki is a 27-year-old insurance company worker who plays baseball on the company team. Since Takayuki takes English classes here on Monday and Thursday nights, our meeting time will be sometime after his class ends. I think the process will be a bit more formal than with Akio, since the time slot will be clearly marked. I think I will make talking points as well, to lead the conversation better.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

A Few January Weeks In Japan

The first few weeks in Hikone have gone by well. Japanese class has been a review of material that I have covered, but now the grammar is clicking much better. Overall, my Japanese is improving to the point where there is a bit of nuance. I still have a long way to go, but I am happy I am making progress.

My sensei switched this semester. I now have Kitasaka-sensei as the primary sensei, whereas Aizawa-sensei is the back-up or recitation sensei. The good cop/bad cop dichotomy works very well. Kitasaka-sensei is very methodical and Aizawa-sensei teaches in a rapid-fire style.

I am still not cooking. I still have curry and pasta in the cabinets, along with pounds of coffee and some of Kevin’s tea. Kevin has been doing most of the cooking, making a bunch of Japanese dishes that his girlfriend taught him over break. Yui bought me a fantastic coffee maker because she accidentally broke my old French press, so I am trying out different Japanese brands. Japan has as few major brands such as Ogawa Coffee and UCC, and when I get sick of that, I can just run to Starbucks and pick up coffee I am used to.

The first weekend back in Hikone, I stayed around the dormitory instead of get out of the city. I went to the city of Nagahama, about a ten minute train ride north of Hikone, for a nice dinner with my friends and a few of the new students. I took everyone to a nice restaurant I went to over the summer. The pasta dishes turned out to be very good, but the pizzas that the rest of us ordered were simply cheese melted onto toast. Consequently, at the bar we went to afterwards, “2nd Booze,” I had an order of fish and chips. The bar had a nice European atmosphere and a good number of the beers available were Belgian.

Last weekend the students at Shiga University and Shiga State University threw a welcome back party. Unlike the last two semesters, the students this semester do not seem to be as into partying and more into drinking. Consequently, the number of Americans in attendance was low in comparison to Japanese. However, we all had a good time and had the opportunity to speak to more Japanese students. After the party a group of us went to Mos Burger, a Japanese burger chain, for a meal and then to a restaurant for drinks.

The transition back to Japan was smooth, and I am pleased to be settling in so well.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

A train ride across central Japan

The flight back to Japan was thirteen and a half hours. I fell asleep after an hour or so and spent the rest of the flight in some sort of semi-lucid state. I remember watching two of the films, and periodically reading. I ended up finishing one book and getting a third of the way through a second. Once we arrived in Tokyo’s Narita airport, I made my way quickly through customs and out of the terminal. Any concerns I had had about finding a train station were dispelled by the Japan Rail station in the airport. I purchased a ticket to Tokyo Station and then a Shinkansen (bullet train) ticket to Maibara, the city north of Hikone, for $150. I lugged my bags down to the platform, and found my seat in something of a haze. As the train pulled out of the Narita station, I promptly fell asleep again.

Tokyo Station has been undergoing construction since the first time I visited last summer. The current condition is of barely controlled chaos. I followed the signs for the Shinkansen up escalators and down a maze of hallways, continually carrying more bags than most of the Japanese seemed to think was prudent. However, once I arrived at my platform the train left promptly, and I found myself sleeping in another train car. Sleeping is the best active camouflage for riding Japanese trains. Part way through the three-hour ride from Tokyo to Maibara, I purchased a shot glass of coffee off the attendant for $3.

A ten-minute taxi ride from Maibara got me back to the dormitory. My friends who were spending the evening in the apartment I occupy with Kevin greeted me upon my return. Yui gave me a new coffee maker and Kevin got me a Starbucks tumbler from his trip to Kobe.

I am content to be back in Japan. Hikone feels like home just as much as Michigan does, and being back in classes and having a daily schedule is nice. The group of new students much more sedate and uniform than the last two semesters, but after talking to a few, I have met some interesting people. Kevin cleaned up the apartment and added quite a few posters. We now have two from a Kyoto club, one from the Israeli bar in Osaka, a political poster and a “Jesus Christ = Superstar” poster from when the Japanese version of the musical came to Hikone. Overall, I could not be happier with the state of the room. Now I just have to get to the store where Yui bought the coffee maker for me, as the handle broke off this morning.

Friday, November 28, 2008

Tokyo Pictures

At the "News Deli" restaurant and bar in Shinjuku.
The News Deli Restaurant and Bar in Shinjuku.
A park next to the Shinjuku Center Building
Akihabara
Samurai armor in the National Museum in Ueno Park
Ueno Park
A performer in Ueno Park
The "pepper" statue in Akasuka, near our hostel.
"Engrish" on a bag in Shibuya
An Asahi poster in Shibuya
At the main bus terminal in Shibuya
The main intersection in Shibuya around 11PM
The bar 'Rooney 2008' in southern Shibuya
The Shibuya station with newly installed art.
Shibuya
A department store sign...
Some Japanese are Obama fans
Get an 'explosive' haircut in Shibuya
Kanye West sunglasses in Shibuya
My favorite clothing store, Uniqlo, in Tokyo
Shibuya shopping district
The busiest intersection I have seen; in Shibuya.
Shinjuku
Harajuku
"Sexy Dynamite" in Harajuku
The Harajuku shopping district
A sign on the subway reminding you not to drink on the train.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Another Lively Friday in Kyoto

On Friday the 14th, I went to a local grade school again. This time I was at Inae-Higashi, which was considerably farther than the last school I went to; Kawase. Unlike the visit to Kawase, I spent considerably more time with the children than in the principals’ office. I was again ushered into the office upon our arrival, and tea was served. Yire, Andrew, and Braden were much better than the students were over the summer, and the three of them engaged the staff in Japanese unlike the summer group. The principal offered us Japanese sweets and then we went over to the gymnasium to meet the children.
Over seventy-five first-graders were waiting for us. A song from the children greeted our entrance; some played cymbals, recorders, and triangles while some formed a choir. After the song, we played games with the children and then made some crafts. The children all seemed pleased to see us; I had a few children holding each of my hands. Before we left, the class played dodge ball; and I had a blast. There is something great about dodge ball that I cannot really explain; but the kids loved to play. If you were hit, you went behind the other team and then if you were able to catch an errant ball you could strike at the opposing team from behind and get back in. I always had a group of students surrounding me, running and jumping out of the way of the flying red balls. The children never threw at the JCMU students, but we attacked each other and the hit I scored on Andrew drew a great cheer from my team of first-graders.

After a brief rest back at JCMU, I set out with my friends to Kyoto. The Koka Women’s University, a private Buddhist college, had invited JCMU to send students to Kyoto for a party. The Koka people had sent ahead vouchers for the taxi fares, and once we arrived at the university, our contact at Koka gave us gift certificates for ¥3000 to cover the ¥2000 train fare. In short, Koka University paid to attend a party thrown for us where the Koka University fed well and entertained by the members of the English Speaking Society of the university. After eating Domino’s pizza, Kentucky Fried Chicken and a plateful of sushi, we played bingo and a few other social games before the party ended. Taxis drove us back to Kyoto Station where Adam, Kevin, and I set out for dinner. After a nice walk through the eastern part of Kyoto, we met Yui and Kelly and made for an izakaya: a Japanese restaurant style, which serves every types of Japanese food and even some foreign foods. The few izakaya, which I have been, are generally large affairs, occupying a few floors of a building. Usually my group has eaten at a section of a long table, our portion of the table marked by curtains hung for privacy. Yui ordered us raw horse, which was delicious. After a few beers at the riverfront, I caught the last train back to Hikone.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Habituated

I seem to have fallen into a routine and before I realized it, time has flashed by. I am not ready to think about leaving, but with a four-day break at the end of the month and a trip to Tokyo and maybe Hiroshima in mind I am excited.
During the week, I spend a few nights at Starbucks. One of the office women works there part time and Ishihara-san will usually come by our table for a bit to chat with us. Ishihara-san is young and talking with her helps me practice speaking informally. Besides, Ishihara-san is hysterical and jokes well with us.
The Japanese did not get the memo that the Christmas season does not start until after Thanksgiving. Starbucks plays Christmas music constantly, and I think I may have to buy better earphones to drone out ‘Silent Night’ and ‘White Christmas’. The local stores are already selling Christmas decorations. At Starbucks Ishihara-san pointed out to us that the ‘Chrismas’ blend had been misspelled.
For all the talk about the Kansai region (where I live) having a rude nature, the people overall are very nice. Storekeepers are happy to hear me speak Japanese to them, even thought I am at a low level. One of the Starbucks clerks told me that I was very skillful, which is not true but still nice. Even though storekeepers are generally friendly, it is nice that so many Japanese encourage us.
I have developed an unhealthy addiction to the clothing store Uniqlo. Uniqlo sells everything except shoes, but I have bought a few shirts and sweaters there as well as a snappy looking flat cap. Every time I try on something I am amused that in Japan I wear and XL size shirt.